The Rise and Fall of Bukit Panjang

Summary: The hill of Bukit Panjang first appeared on maps in 1846 1848. By 1898, the long ridge that originally bears the name of Bukit Panjang has two marked peaks on it, Bukit Gombak (437 ft) and Bukit Panjang (434 ft), making them the 2nd and 3rd highest hill in Singapore, respectively. By 1974 or 75, quarrying activities have reduced Bukit Panjang's height to 113 m. On maps, the hill seem to have lost its name by 1983. By 1993, it was further reduced to a height of 112 m.  

Figure 1. On this 2010 topographical map of Singapore [1], Bukit Panjang the new town is situated at the topof the picture, straddling Bukit Panjang Road. Diagonally across the junction is the contours of a ridge. Although there marked a trigonometrical point '133 Bt. Gombak I', there is no mention of any hill here named Bukit Panjang. Where then, is Bukit Panjang Hill? 

The new town of Bukit Panjang is named after a hill called Bukit Panjang. That much is obvious, but what is less obvious is the location of this hill. There is indeed a hill nearby, opposite from the new town of Bukit Panjang across Upper Bukit Timah Road (where the the Singapore Ministry of Defence sprawls over). However, on recent topographical maps of Singapore (See for example the 2010 topographical map featured in Figure 1) [1], you do not actually see the hill marked as Bukit Panjang, rather, it is labeled as Bukit Gombak. So where then, is Bukit Panjang? An interesting blog page answered this question [2]. But the story rather intrigued me, and I started to dig into the old maps of Singapore to try to figure out more of the history of Bukit Panjang the Hill. So here I make a report of the rise and fall of Bukit Panjang through the ages, according to maps...

The earliest mention of Bukit Panjang on maps is in the "Map Of The Old Straits, Or Silat Tambrau And The Creeks To The North Of Singapore Island" [3] (Figure 2), surveyed by J.T. Thomson, the Straits Settlement's Government Surveyor (and the 'Thomson' of 'Thomson Road'), in April 1848. (See Addendum below)

Figure 2. Portion of "Map Of The Old Straits, Or Silat Tambrau And The Creeks To The North Of Singapore Island" [3] dated 1848, that shows Bukit Panjang, together with Bukit Timah and Bukit Mandai.

Subsequently, in 1849, was published "Map Of Singapore Island And Its Dependencies" [4], the earliest map that shows the whole island, plus its interior development [5]. The map (See Figure 3), also depicts Bukit Panjang (and the other Bukits) rather similar to the 1848 map (Figure 2). Apart from the Bukits, you can also see Bukit Timah Road linking the City to the interior and northwards to the Straits of Johore. 

Figure 3. Portion of "Map Of Singapore Island And Its Dependencies" (J.T. Thomson, 1849) [4]. 

This 1849 "Map Of Singapore Island And Its Dependencies" is the first of a long series of maps of the same name that successively show more and more development and details of the interior of Singapore island. The next in the series, from 1852 (See Figure 4), depicts the hill in a long form, befitting its name "Panjang" which means "long". Curiously, the name of the hill was corrupted to "Bukit Panjallang" in this map. 

Figure 4. Portion of "Map Of Singapore Island And Its Dependencies" (J.T. Thomson, 1852) [6] that shows 'Bukit Pan jallang'. The feature of the hill is also distinctively long. as expected of the descriptive name of 'panjang'.  

In the 1873 edition [7], a village has also popped up at the foot of Bukit Panjang (See Figure 5), which can be counted as the direct ancestor of Bukit Panjang, I suppose.

Figure 5. Portion of "Map Of the Island of Singapore And Its Dependencies" (1873) [7]. A 'Village' appeared along the Bukit Timah Road, at the foot of Bukit Panjang. I guess we can call this the ancestor of Bukit Panjang new town.

The 1898 edition of the "Map Of the Island of Singapore And Its Dependencies" [8] shows a dramatic change (See Figure 6). Along the long hill feature that was Bukit Panjang, is now labelled two 'Bukits'. Bukit Panjang still remains but is now more specifically a point on the northern part of the ridge, while a "Bukit Gombak" occupies a point on the southern part of the ridge. This seems to be the earliest mention of "Bukit Gombak" on maps. To add salt to the wound, not only did Bukit Panjang lose its 'monopoly' over the whole ridge, it was now not even the tallest on the ridge. You can see on the map, the heights of the hills have also been added, with Bukit Gombak at 437 ft (133.2 m) dethroning Bukit Panjang at 434 ft (132.3 m). This made Bukit Gombak and Bukit Panjang, the second and third tallest hills in the country [9]. Incidentally, Bukit Batok also made its debut on this map.

Figure 6. Portion of "Map Of Singapore Island And Its Dependencies" (1898) [8]. It shows the original Bukit Panjang Ridge has now two peaks. At the north end of the ridge, Bukit Panjang at 434 ft (132.3 m) and at the south end of the ridge, Bukit Gombak at 437 ft (133.2 m). This is the first time Bukit Gombak appears on maps. Incidentally, Bukit Batok (South of the Bukit Gombak), also made its debut.

In an early topographical map of Singapore dating from 1932 [10] (Figure 7), you can get a better idea of the terrain of the Bukit Panjang/Gombak ridge (Left of the north-south going railway line (black and white) and Bukit Timah road (red). Right of the rail and road, you can see 'BT. Panjang Village'. Although Bukit Panjang has been dethroned, it does have the consolation of having a village named after it, and the general area of the long ridge marked as part of the Bukit Panjang Forest Reserve (BT. PANJANG F.R.). 

Figure 7. Portion of the 1932 Topographical Map Of Singapore Island [10]. Contours showing the terrain of the original Bukit Panjang/Gombak Ridge (Top left area of map). 

Through World War II till independence, the terrain stayed pretty much the same, although development, especially after 1950s, will soon drastically change the landscape. Fast forward to 1966. On the 1:25000 topographical map of 1966 (See Figure 8), Bukit Panjang is still marked as 434 ft. However, beside it, you can also see "Lian Hup Quarry". Ominously, you can see features that resemble teeth biting into the hill, detailing the results of quarrying activities. In fact, quarrying on Bukit Panjang has been on going for a while, and Lian Hup Quarry has already appeared on maps since as early as 1953.

Figure 8. Portion of the 1966 Topographical Map Of Singapore Island [11]. Inside the blue box is Bukit Panjang still at 434 ft (132 m) but threatened by the quarrying activity of 'Lian Hup Quarry'.

Thanks to the quarrying activities, by 1974, the top of the hill was no more. The 1:25000 topographical map of 1975 [12] (Figure 9) shows that in place of the hill top, a big hole has appeared, and the high point, denoted by a dot, has shifted east a bit and reduced to 113 m. 

Figure 9. Portion of the 1975 Topographical Map Of Singapore [12]. Lian Hup Quarry has erased the top of Bukit Panjang. The new highpoint of 113 m is on its eastern flank, as pointed out by the arrow.

Bukit Panjang Hill suffered further humiliations. It seemed to have lost even its name on maps from 1983 onwards. In Figure 10, in the blue box is the remnant of the hill with its 100 m contour line devoid of any name or label, while Bukit Gombak lies unscathed, and thriving. 

Figure 10. Portion of the 1983 Topographical Map Of Singapore [13]. Within the blue box, the 100 m contour line representing the remnant of the hill, devoid of any name or label.

By 1993, further quarrying scrapped away the northern part of the remnant summit of Bukit Panjang, and the highpoint shifted slightly south and further reduced to a height of 112 m (as pointed out by the arrow in Figure 11).

Figure 11. Portion of the 1993 Topographical Map Of Singapore Island [14], with further reduced summit and a new highpoint of 112 m.

That pretty much remains as it was till the present, it seems. In the meantime, the ridge has been overtaken by the Ministry of Defence (MINDEF), and sealed off from public access. Figure 12 is a screenshot taken (30th Aug. 2020) from Google Map of the Bukit Panjang/Gombak ridge. 'BP' and 'BG' marks Bukit Panjang (where the 112 m point is) and Bukit Gombak respectively. BP is now right behind the "National Security Coordination Centre" which looks like it is the main building of MINDEF (Our Pentagon). The blue circle beside is the quarry hole where the original Bukit Panjang summit used to be. Although reduced to 112 m presently (it is still marked as 112 m in the 2017 edition of the 1:50,000 topographical Map Of Singapore Island), it still retained its '3rd tallest hill' title in Singapore [15] due to the fact that Bukit Mandai, which was originally at 129 m suffered a worse fate than Bukit Panjang, but that will be another tale to tell in another later blog page. 

Figure 12. Google map (retrieved 30th Aug. 2020), the marker labelled BP shows the location of the 112 m peak of the reduced Bukit Panjang. BG = Bukit Gombak. The blue circle marks the remnants of the quarry that 'ate up' the original summit of Bukit Panjang. 

Addendum (25th Sept 2020): An earlier mention of Bukit Panjang on maps can be found on a hydrographic chart "...Survey Of The Straits Of Singapore..." published in 1846, made by Samuel Congalton, the Commander of a Steamer, Diana, and  J. T. Thomson, Government Surveyor (See Figure 13). Interestingly, on the map, the name "Bukit Pandan" is used instead, so the 1848 map in Figure 2 may still be the earliest map with the correct "Bukit Panjang" spelling.

Figure 13. Portion of the 1846 Hydrographic Chart by S. Congalton and J.T. Thomson. Note that Bukit Panjang's name is "Bukit Pandan" on the map [16].

References

[1]    Singapore  1:50,000 Series SMU 075, Edition 9 (Mapping Unit, Ministry of Defense, Singapore, 2010). Retrieved from https://libmaps.nus.edu.sg/ 

[2]    https://ijamestann.blogspot.com/2012/07/i-found-bukit-panjang.html

[3]    Map Of The Old Straits, Or Silat Tambrau And The Creeks To The North Of Singapore Island, (J. T. Thomson, 1848). Retrieved from National Archives of Singapore

[4]    Map Of Singapore Island And Its Dependencies. (J. T. Thomson, 1849). Retrieved from National Archives of Singapore

[5]    Mok Ly Yng "Mapping Singapore 1819 - 2014", Visualising Space: Maps of Singapore and the Region, (National  Library Board, Singapore, 2015), pg. 93.

[6]    Map Of Singapore Island And Its Dependencies. (according to [5], attributed to J.T. Thomson , 1852). Retrieved from National Archives of Singapore

[7]    Map Of the Island of Singapore And Its Dependencies. (J.F.A. McNair, 1873). Retrieved from National Archives of Singapore

[8]    Map Of the Island of Singapore And Its Dependencies. (A. Murray, 1898). Retrieved from National Archives of Singapore

[9]     Assuming we exclude the other summits in the  Bukit Timah Massif. I know it is not fair, but anyways, that will be discussed in a later Blog.  

[10]    Singapore and Johore Nos. 3L/11 & 3L/12. [1:63,360 Topographical Map] (Surveyor General F.M.S. and S.S., 1932). Retrieved from National Archives of Singapore

[11]    Singapore and Johore Series L802, Edition 1-DNMM [1:25,000 Topographical Map] (Chief Surveyor, Malaysia, 1966). Retrieved from https://libmaps.nus.edu.sg/

[12]    Singapore Series SMU 025 [1:25,000 Topographical Map] (Mapping Unit, Ministry of Defense, Singapore, 1975). Retrieved from https://libmaps.nus.edu.sg/

[13]    Singapore  1:50,000 Series SMU 075, Edition 3 (Mapping Unit, Ministry of Defense, Singapore, 1983). Retrieved from https://libmaps.nus.edu.sg/

[14]    Singapore  1:50,000 Series SMU 075, Edition 5 (Mapping Unit, Ministry of Defense, Singapore, 1993). Retrieved from https://libmaps.nus.edu.sg/

[15]    https://hyperbolictans.wixsite.com/singaporebukits https://sites.google.com/view/sgbukits/home 

[16]    This Survey Of The Straits Of Singapore, Is Respectfully Inscribed To The Honourable Colonel Butterworth, C.B. Governor of Prince of Wales Island, Singapore & Malacca, by his most obedient servants, Samuel Congalton, Comm: H. C. Steamer, Diana, J. T. Thomson, Government Surveyor, 1846. (James M. Richardson, London, 1846). Retrieved from National Archives of Singapore        

       

An early "Singaporean's" visit to China

The early "Singaporean" here is Parameswara. His destination, today's Nanjing, in Jiangsu province, China. The date, 1411 CE.

Parameswara was the founding ruler of the Malay Kingdom circa 1400 CE that became the Melaka Sultanate. He had originally been the ruler of Singapura before being turned out of the place in ~1396 CE. His reign in Melaka lasted till 1414 [1,2]. 

Nanjing was the capital of early Ming dynasty in China, from 1368, the start of the reign of the first Ming emperor Hongwu 洪武 till 1420 towards the near the end of the reign of the third emperor Yongle 永乐, when the capital was moved northwards to Beijing. 

Parameswara (拜裡迷蘇剌 Bai li mi su la) as a King of a vassal state to China, paid a homage visit to imperial capital of the Ming Dynasty in the 9th year of Yongle reign (1411). He and his gigantic entourage of 540 people got a lift from Zheng He's fleet which was returning back to China after their third voyage to the 'Western Seas' [2] 

Parameswara's visit to the Ming imperial capital was recorded in the 《太宗文皇帝实录》 "The Veritable Records of the Taizong Wen Emperor (Emperor Yongle)". These are part of 明实录"The Veritable Records of the Ming Dynasty" which is an official compilation of the accounts of all the Ming emperors' reigns [3]. Here are the extracts from the Veritable Records that relates to Parameswara's visit:

Yongle Year 9, Month 7, Day 15 (4th Aug 1411)

...满刺加国王拜里迷苏刺来朝遣中官海寿礼部郎中黄裳等往宴劳之... [4]

The King of Melaka Parameswara arrived. Officials Hai Tao, Huang Shang and others were sent to feast their arrival...

Yongle Year 9, Month 7, Day 25 (14th Aug 1411)

...满剌加国王拜里迷苏刺率其妻子及陪臣五百四十馀人入朝初 上闻之念其轻去乡土跋涉海道以来即遣官往劳复命有供张会同馆是日奉表入见并献方物 上御奉天门宴劳之... [4]

The King of Melaka Parameswara led his wife and accompanying officials to the number of more than five hundred and forty to attend the imperial court (at Fengtian dian (palace) 奉天殿 [5]). The emperor commanded to set up tent (provide lodging?) at 会同馆 (Huitong guan (building)).... The Emperor feasted the visitors at 奉天门 (Fengtian men (gate))...

Yongle Year 9, Month 7, Day 28 (17th Aug 1411)

赐满刺加国王拜里迷苏刺及其妃八儿迷速里等宴于会通馆…[4]

(The emperor) gifted a banquet to Parameswara, his wife and entourage at 会通馆 (Huitong building)...

Yongle Year 9, Month 9, Day 1 (18th Sep 1411)

宴满刺加国王拜里迷苏刺及榜葛刺古里等国使臣云南木邦军民宣慰司等处所遣头目于午门 [6]

Melaka King Parameswara, envoys from Bangla, Kuli (Calicut) and others were banqueted at 午门 (Wu men or 'Noon Gate')

Yongle Year 9, Month 9, Day 15 (2nd Oct 1411)

满刺加国王拜里迷苏刺辞归赐宴于奉天门... [6]

The King of Melaka bade his farewell and was banqueted at 奉天门 (Fengtian Gate)...

And finally away, home they go...

Yongle Year 9, Month 9, Day 18 (5th Oct 1411)

...命礼部宴饯满刺加国王及榜葛刺古里诸国使臣于龙江驿仍赐宴于龙潭驿… [6]

(The emperor) commanded an official to banquet the King of Melaka at 龙江驿 (Longjiang yi or literally "Dragon River Stop"), and again at 龙潭驿 (Longtan yi or literally "Dragon Pool Stop"). 

So what are some of these places that Parameswara visited? One can imagine the glory and bustle of Nanjing during the early days of the Ming. Today, unfortunately most of these spots are long gone. 

午门, 奉天门, 奉天殿

The mostly ruined or razed grounds of the imperial palace, where much of the feasting and feting took place, can still be visited. It is well worth a visit, and it is near to the excellent Nanjing Museum, and not too far away from a major sight of Nanjing, the World Heritage Site of the Mausoleum of the first Ming emperor Zhu Yuanzhang.

午门 or "Noon gate" (Figure 1), where some of the banquets that Parameswara attended were held, is the main entrance into the palace. Some of its bulky majestic structure are still left.

Figure 1. 午门 or "Noon gate". The entrance to the Ming Imperial Palace.

Entering the Noon Gate, a couple of hundred metres later is what is leftover of 奉天门 (Fengtian Gate), where more banquets were held. 

Figure 2. The remains of 奉天门 (Fengtian Gate).午门 or "Noon gate". The entrance to the Ming Imperial Palace.

  

To pay homage to the Ming Emperor, Parameswara will have to attend the court session by entering via Fengtian Gate, where 奉天殿 (Fengtian Palace) is situated (Figure 3 and 4). This is the largest and most majestic building on the palace grounds and was used for court assembly and the most important official events [7].  

Figure 3. The marker of the original location of 奉天殿 (Fengtian Palace). 

Figure 4. The green patches of grass and the patch between them marks the original footprint of 奉天殿 (Fengtian Palace).

Figure 5. Google map snapshot of The Nanjing Ming Palace Museum Relics Park with the landmarks mentioned above. The imperial palace grounds cover roughly the green patches in the middle of the figure. Notice the moat around (blue colour waterways), which marks the approximate boundary of the Imperial Citadel 皇城.

After the capital of the Ming Dynasty was moved to the north (Hence Beijing or Northern Capital) in the 1420s, and Nanjing became Nanjing (Southern Capital), the palace lost its purpose. The invasion by the Qing troops and later warfare during late Qing times 1850-1860s razed the palace grounds to almost nothing. In 1927, the whole place was converted to an airfield! The Nanjing Ming Palace Museum Relics Park was designated a National level protected cultural area in 2006 and is nowadays a pleasant park (Figure 6). 

Figure 6. Plaque proclaiming the Nanjing Ming Palace Museum Relics Park as a National level cultural protected site.

会同馆, 龙江驿, 龙潭驿

To figure out where the other places that Parameswara had been, I had to look up《洪武京城图志》[8] "The maps of the Hongwu Imperial Capital", which is a series of maps of Nanjing, officially commissioned and published in 1395 (28th year of Hongwu Emperor's reign. Hongwu being the reign era of Zhu Yuanzhang, the founding Ming emperor and father of Zhu Di, the Yongle emperor). Another reference used is the famous《郑和航海图》(The maritime charts of Zheng He's voyages) [9].   

Figure 7. 官署图 (map of government buildings) from《洪武京城图志》(The maps of the Hongwu Imperial Capital) The red box outlines the Imperial Citadel, that contains the Imperial Palace. The blue box outlines Huitong Building. North is roughly towards the top.

 

Figure 8. 京城山川图 (map of the hills and rivers of the imperial capital) from《洪武京城图志》(The maps of the Hongwu Imperial Capital). The lower red box outlines the Imperial Citadel. The red box on the top left is outlines Huitong Building. North is roughly towards the top.

While in Nanjing, Parameswara was banqueted and probably stayed at 会同馆 (Huitong building), which was the governmental lodge for visiting envoys and dignitaries [8]. This lodge laid on 长安路 [8], a main thoroughfare leading southwest from the south gate 承天门 of the Imperial Citadel 皇城 (The city within the city which contains the major governmental edifices, major sacrificial altars and temples, and the imperial palace grounds). The road and the lodge no longer exist. Figure 7 above shows the 官署图 (map of government buildings) from《洪武京城图志》(The maps of the Hongwu Imperial Capital) where I have marked out the 'Imperial Citadel' (in red) and 'Huitong building' in blue, somewhat southwest of the imperial citadel.

On his departure from Nanjing to return home, Parameswara stopped at 龙江驿 (Longjiang Yi) for yet another banquet. According to《洪武京城图志》, 龙江驿 (Longjiang yi) is another government travel lodge, perhaps serving like a caravanserai, and is situated outside 金川门 (Jinchuan men or literal translated as 'golden river gate'), along the Yangzi jiang river [8]. You can see on the map in Figure 8, 京城山川图  or 'map of the hills and rivers of the imperial capital' from 《洪武京城图志》. In the top left box, is 金川门 which is a gate of the inner city wall, and the great Yangzi jiang river not far beyond. As for Parameswara's next stop, 龙潭驿 (Longtan yi), there are no records in the 《洪武京城图志》. However the place 龙潭 (Longtan) is featured in《郑和航海图》[9], which is shown in Figure 9 below in the blue box. 龙潭 (Longtan) is supposed to be about 60 'li' (chinese miles) from Nanjing [9].  Presumably 龙潭驿 (Longtan yi) is in 龙潭 (Longtan) and therefore can be reached from 观音门 (Guanyin men or Guanyin gate) which is one of the gates of the outer city wall of Nanjing [8] which you can see marked out in the box at the top right of the map in Figure 8.  

Figure 9. Part of 《郑和航海图》 covering the area east of the imperial capital [9]. The 'map' is orientate roughly opposite from the preceding two maps (Figure 7 and 8), i.e. south is top. Note the Yangzi Jiang river near the bottom of the chart. The blue box marks 龙潭 (Longtan) and the nearby red box marks  观音门 (Guanyin gate) which also appears Figure 8. The big rectangle on the right of Figure 9 is the Imperial Citadel.

Where Parameswara went after that, I have no idea as The Veritable Records and Ming Shi say nothing. However, he must have taken a boat somewhere soon after, and returned home. He most definitely did not take the boats of Zheng He's 4th voyage which did not leave China till 1413. We do know he did safely reach home, as he then dispatched his nephew to visit Nanjing, who arrived in Nanjing in July 1412 [3].

References

[1] The Malay Sultanate of Malacca, Muhammad Yusoff Hashim (Dewan Bahasa dan Pustaka, KL, 1992)

[2] Wang Gungwu, "The First Three Rulers of Malacca". JMBRAS 41, 1 (July 1968), 11-22.

[3] Southeast Asia in the Ming Shi-lu. An Open Access Resource.  yihttp://epress.nus.edu.sg/msl/

[4] 《太宗文皇帝实录卷一百十七》

[5] 《明史, 卷三百二十五, 列传第二百一十三, 外国六, 滿剌加》

[6] 《太宗文皇帝实录卷一百十九》

[7] 《中国宫殿史》（修订本）, 雷从云，陈绍棣，林秀贞 (百花文艺出版社, 天津，2005)

[8] 《洪武京城图志》南京稀见文献丛刊 (南京出版社, 南京, 2017)

[9] 《郑和航海图》整理：向达 (中华书局, 北京, 1961) , pg 24.

Date of my visit to Nanjing: 22nd May 2016

Maps on display at the National Museum of Singapore I

The main gallery of the National Museum of Singapore (NMS) is the Singapore History Gallery. After a recent revamp and the reopening in November 2015, the entrance to the gallery is now dominated by a digital rendition of the famous Ortelius map, Indiae orientalis insvlarvmqve adiacientivm typvs. 

  

If you tire at watching the 21st century graphics, you can still enjoy the original 16th century map, which is also on display in gallery. The map is found in a small half-room, at the end of the pre-colonial section of the gallery, before the large Raffles portrait greeting the visitors as they enter the colonial section of the History gallery.

Name: Indiae orientalis insularumque adiacientium typus (from Theatrum Orbis Terrarum)

Year: 1570??

Map maker: Abraham Ortelius

This map Indiae orientalis insvlarvmqve adiacientivm typvs (A map of the East Indies and surrounding islands) is one of the many maps included in the atlas, Theatrum Orbis Terrarum, published by Antwerp based Flemish cartographer Abraham Ortelius.  Theatrum Orbis Terrarum is also known as the first 'modern' atlas. Modern in the sense,  that it is the first systematic compilation of similar sized maps into a book form and that the maps were drawn based on the recent geographical knowledge, rather than based on the ancient (mainly Ptolemaic) geographical knowledge[1]. The Theatrum Orbis Terrarum was very popular when it was first published in 1570, and went on to have more than 30 editions in various languages, from 1570 to 1612 [1]. 

This Indiae orientalis map is based on the world map published in 1569, Nova et Aucta Orbis Terrae Descriptio ad Usum Navigantium Emendate Accommodata by Gerardus Mercator. The Mercator map is famous as being the earliest map that used the projection method, known today as the Mercator projection.

In the Indiae orientalis map, we have at the southern tip of Malaca peninsula, a place name Cincapura. This undoubtedly denotes Singapura, from which the modern name of Singapore derives.  Although early, the Indiae orientalis was not the first map, manuscript or printed, to feature [Singapore] (or names similar to that). If you want to know more these very first maps which feature [Singapore], let me refer you to these previous entries,  a and b.

Taking a closer look at the Indiae orientalis map, you will see that Cincapura is not presented as an island. Rather, it denotes an actual settlement or port. Looking around the vicinity of Cincapura, you can also find several familiar place names in present day Malaysia and Indonesia: Mubar (Muar), Malaca (Melaka), Paam (Pahang), Calatan (Kelantan), Pera (Perak), Quedoa (Kedah), Palimban (Palembang) and many others.

There are some other interesting facts about this map. This map, together with another contemporary map by Ortelius, were the first printed map to mention Taiwan, albeit by its old Portuguese name Fermosa [2]. The depiction of the island on the map is however, not quite accurate, as it seems to feature Fermosa as a group of small islands. Taiwan, it seems has been shattered into many pieces.

Although the caption for this Indiae orientalis map attributes this map to 1570, I am somewhat sceptical about it, but that is  a subject for another future entry, and I wouldn't dwell on it here.

Situated  near to this map in the History Gallery, are two more maps: One is a 1606 map (mistakenly labelled as 19th century), entitled Contrafactur des Scharmutz els der Holander... (from Achter Theil der Orientalischen Indien, Frankfurt am Main). It depicts a October 1603 naval battle between the Portuguese and the Dutch just off the coast of Singapore, and  features the earliest close-up map of Singapore. This naval battle is not to be confused with another related incident, the seizure of Santa Catarina, which happened in February 1603. I have an earlier blog entry about this map.

The other map in this half-room is a 18th century French maritime chart:

Name: Carte Réduite des Detroits de Malaca, Sincapour, et du gouverneur

Year: 1755

Map maker: Jacques-Nicolas Bellin

From the early 17th to early 19th century, Singapore island itself was not of much interest to the Europeans, judging from the inaccurate depiction of the geographical feature of the Singapore island on European maps and maritime charts of those times. Instead the main focus of the maps and maritime charts were the waters around Singapore island, which were important, as they connect the South China Sea to the Straits of Malacca, and onwards to the Indian Ocean. Then, as is now,  the waterways south of Singapore were of immense strategic value. 

This chart by Jacques-Nicolas Bellin is one example of such charts. Jacques-Nicolas Bellin (1703-1772) was a famous hydrographer and map-maker. At a tender age of 18, he was already appointed as the hydrographer for the newly created l’office hydrographique français et du Dépôt des cartes et plans de la Marine (French Office of Hydrography and depot for maps and maritime charts). 

This picture is captured from a similar map in the National Library of Singapore collection that was on display during a 2015 exhibition.

The depiction of Singapore was rather typical of the maps of this region from late 17th to late 18th century. Basically, they couldn't care less what the actual shape of Singapore island was. Many of them adopt a 'three island model', where the main island of Singapore, usually of a elongated shape is accompanied by two smaller islands to the north of it. The two smaller islands are likely to be corrupted depictions of the islands of present day Pulau Ubin and Pulau Tekong. 

One interesting thing about this map is that, the island which ostensibly is Singapore is labelled Pulo ou Isle Panjang (Pulau or Long Island). Instead of labelling the island itself, the name Sincapour appears in the names of the waterways off Singapore Island. Off the south of the island, there is a Nouveau Detroit de Sincapour (New Strait of Singapore) while the channel between Isle Panjang  and Salat Buro is labelled as Vieux Detroit de Sincapour (Old Strait of Singapore). The mariners of those days, probably associate the toponym [Singapore] with the waterway rather than the island. 

Other Singapore off shore islands can also be identified, such as Isle St. Jean (St. John 's Island), Isle la Violle (Pulau Biola or Violin Island), and Pierre Blanche (Pedra Branca).

References
[1]  R. V. Tooley, Maps and Map-Makers (Dorset Press, New York, 1987). pp. 29-30
[2] T. Suarez, Early Mapping of Southeast Asia (Periplus, Singapore, 1999). p. 164

Some Treasures at the Museum Nasional, Jakarta

One of best things I did during my visits to Jakarta was to visit the treasure-filled National Museum of Indonesia (Museum Nasional). Here, I will mention a few of these treasures that are somewhat related to Singapore.

The front view of the Museum Nasional in Jakarta.

The Gajah Sculpture

The main museum building is also known locally as the Gedung Gajah or elephant building. It is named so because of the elephant statue standing in front of the building. This bronze elephant is a gift from King Chulalongkorn of Thailand during his visit to Batavia in 1871. This elephant has a twin in Singapore, which sits right in front of Singapore's old Parliament House (currently called the Arts House). 

The elephant twins. Gifts from Chulalongkorn to (L) Batavia and (R) Singapore during his first trip overseas in 1871.

The Thai King Rama V, better known as Chulalongkorn, made a trip (the very first overseas trip by a Thai monarch) to Singapore and Batavia in 1871 from 9 March-15 April [1]. This pair of handsome elephant statues were gifts from Chulalongkorn to Batavia and Singapore, respectively, to commemorate the visits. 

Raffles' Bust

Bust of Stamford Raffles

In a room immediately to the left after the main entrance of the old wing, where some of the old colonial artefacts are placed, is a bronze bust statue of Sir Stamford Raffles. This bust is probably the 1929 copy commissioned by the Royal Batavian Society of Arts and Sciences (Koninklijk Bataviaasch Genootschap van Kunsten en Wetenschappen) for their 150th anniversary celebration [2]. This society and the collections that it amassed formed the basis of the National Museum of Indonesia. This bust is a copy of the famous Chantrey bust in the collection of the London Zoological Society. 

From 1811 till 1816, Raffles was the Lieutenant-Governor of Java. He was also deeply interested in the culture of Java. In 1813, he helped revive the society (then known as the Bataviaasch Genootschap der Konsten en Wetenschappen or the Batavian Society of Arts and Sciences), and was made president of the society [3].   

Kota Kapur Inscription

On this stone is inscribed the oldest known dated writings in the Malay language. This stone inscription was found at Kota Kapur on Bangka island and is dated to 686 CE. During this time, the area was under the suzerainty of the Srivijaya empire. The Old Malay was inscribed in the Later Pallava script, and contains a curse against those who do evil and who are disloyal to the King. It also talks about the King's planned invasion of Bhumi to subject it to Srivijaya's rule [4]. Old Malay is the direct ancestor of Bahasa Indonesia (official language of Indonesia) and Bahasa Melayu (official/national language of Malaysia, Brunei and Singapore), which are essentially the same language. Well, to be exact, Bahasa Melayu is the national language and one of the official languages in Singapore. 

(L). The Kota Kapur Inscription. Dated 686 CE. (R) A closer look at the inscribed Pallava script.

Also of interest is another stone inscription near the Museum entrance, known as the Telagabatu Inscription, written also in the Old Malay language using the Later Pallava script. This inscription is also dated to the 7th century CE.

Regalia of the Riau-Lingga Sultanate

On the fourth level of the new wing (this level is only accessible by elevator, and seems to be missed by most visitors) is the Treasures and Ceramics gallery.

In this gallery are exhibited many artefacts which were the heirlooms of by-gone sultanates which were annexed by the Dutch when they were in power. One of these defunct sultanates that has their regalia housed here is the Riau-Lingga Sultanate. The Riau-Lingga Sultanate royal regalia on display [5] includes two jogan (ritual fans or State lances by different accounts), one silver and one gold. There are also two pedang (swords) on display.     

Items of the royal regalia of the Riau-Lingga Sultanate. (L) The silver Jogan and (R) the gold Jogan (picture taken from [5]). Written on the gold Jogan is the claimed lineage of the sultan, and how he has the legitimacy of rule over the Tanah Melayu ...etc... [6].

How are these items related to Singapore's history? In Feb. 1819, in order to have someone pliable to sign a 'Treaty of Friendship and Alliance' to set up a trading post in Singapore, Raffles effectively installed Tengku Hussein as the Sultan of Johor and Singapore. This was done when there was already a Sultan Abdul Rahman, who as the Sultan of Johor-Riau, was supposed to reign over Singapore as well. 

How did Raffles manage to pull it off? Well, things were not so straightforward. Since the previous Sultan, Mahmud died in 1812, different factions in the royal court supporting either Tengku Abdul Rahman or Tengku Hussein had been jockeying and trying to install their own candidate as sultan. Abdul Rahman, the younger half-brother of Hussein, won out with the support of the Dutch and the Bugis. Now, one of the list of things you need to check off if you want to be properly installed as a Sultan is to have the royal Regalia in your possession. Unfortunately for Abdul Rahman, the royal Regalia was under the custody of Engku Puteri Rajah Hamida, who was the main royal wife of Sultan Mahmud (Abdul Rahman and Hussein were sons of two minor commoner wives of Mahmud). She did not accept the legitimacy of Abdul Rahman's installation as sultan, and refused to hand over the Royal Regalia. And so the succession dispute dragged on for years. 

In early 1819, as it would not be possible to sign a treaty with Sultan Abdul Rahman who was under the thumb of the Dutch, rivals to the British commercial interests, Raffles and company seized this opportunity to their advantage to install their own puppet sultan whom they could then 'legally' sign a treaty with.  

Eventually, when all the dust had settled when the 'higher powers' in Europe thrashed out the 1824 Anglo-Dutch treaty, the erstwhile Riau-Johor Sultanate was partitioned into the Riau-Lingga and Johor-Singapore Sultanates, under the Dutch and British spheres of influence, respectively.  

The royal regalia was later taken forcibly away from Engku Puteri Rajah Hamida by the Dutch to give to Sultan Abdul Rahman. The Riau-Lingga sultanate was annexed by the Dutch in 1911, and the regalia eventually ended up in the museum's collection. 

It is not known exactly when these items on display were made and they could have been made post-1819 (the labels were not very specific about the ages of these artefacts). However it is probable and I would like to think that they were part of the regalia that was withheld by Engku Puteri Rajah Hamida in the dramatic days of 1810s and that I am looking at artefacts that had a role in the founding of modern Singapore. I suppose these artefacts could go even further back in time and originated from the Malacca sultanate. Pure speculations.

And if you have some time to spare after the museum trip, do drop by the nearby Museum Taman Prasasti to take a look at the tombs of Olivia Raffles and John Leyden. 

References
[1] Lim, Patricia Pui Hue, Through the eyes of the King : the travels of King Chulalongkorn to Malaya (Institute of Southeast Asian Studies, Singapore, 2009).
[2] Bonny Tan, "Raffles' Bust" from Singapore Infopedia (National Library Board, Singapore, 2005). link
[3] John N. Miksic (Ed.), Icons of Art: The Collections of the National Museum of Indonesia (BAB Publishing, Jakarta, 2007) p. 47.
[4] ibid. pp. 102-103
[5] ibid. p. 143

[6] During my first visit to the museum in Oct. 2012, I could only take the pictures of the silver Jogan as the gold Jogan was out on loan. During my second visit in Oct. 2014, I finally got to see the gold Jogan. Unfortunately, this time round, no photography was allowed due to security reasons, presumably because of the recent burglary from the National Museum (see link here). In its place, I pinched a picture from [5].

Dates of visits: 7th Oct. 2012, & 12th Oct. 2014